Westward Ho 4: Montana and Washington

From Yellowstone I headed north to Montana, stopping in Bozeman to wait on a package from UPS (my new replacement binoculars....old ones failed in Colorado). I actually spent a few days in Bozeman, arriving on Friday and leaving Monday morning, and really liked it. It's a nice size down, not too touristy, a great library and wonderful parks and bike paths, one of which was right outside the library. I also enjoyed walking the neighborhoods near the library where there were great old houses.

Some of the artwork along the hiking/biking trail at the Bozeman library

Life size sculptures

 From Bozeman I headed to north on 287, taking 141 out of Helena, stopping at Big Larch CG on Seeley Lake. The drive was gorgeous. The campground is named aptly for the very large Larch trees in the area. The next day I continued on to Kalispell, then on to spend a noisy night in Columbia Falls, before heading to Glacier NP.

Many Glaciers area in the Waterton-Glacier NP

Glacier was amazing but incredibly windy for the three days I was there. It was also extremely crowded. I'd hoped that by the time I arrived, the Going to the Sun Road would be open, so I was disappointed to find that I could only go about half way. I did a lot of driving and a little hiking, but only with the masses....yes I had bear spray, but I let the rangers spook me about hiking alone, and honestly, if I have to "make a lot of noise while hiking" it just isn't the same for me. I'd considered crossing into Canada on the third day, as I was only about 20 miles from the border, but the winds were just ridiculous so instead I headed south to Browning, where I ran into a guy who wanted to talk about my van, who'd just come from Canada and said it was even windier there. The road from Babb to Browning, 89, was a beautiful drive. I backtracked to Kalispell and headed west to McGregor Lake campground.
The next day I continued on west stopping to see the Kootenai River suspension bridge and the Ross Creek Giant Cedars.

Kootenai River

 I crossed into Idaho and my first order of business was to check to Kootenai NWR, it was midday so not a lot of activity but a pretty place.  From there I headed south on Hwy 2 and into Washington. My first stop was the ranger station in Newport. I was hoping to get info on dispersed camping near Little Pend Oreille NWR so I could be there early to bird. The rangers mentioned that there was actually camping in the NWR so I called ahead to confirm and there was indeed, and best of all it was.....you guessed it, free!
Pend Oreille was a total surprise. It's the only NWR in the lower 48 that is mountainous. There were four distinct ecological areas, dry mountains, meadows, wetlands and woodland streams. It was amazing, truly a place I'd go back to.

I wanted to stay longer here, in my campsite on the creek, but it was getting warm so I headed west. I stopped in Colville to do laundry and catch some library time, making my way to a free campground called Trout Lake far up a single track road near Sherman Pass about 25 mi. south of the Canadian border. The next morning I saw the only bear I would see on the entire trip, a beautiful shaggy, cinnamon animal crossing the road ahead of me. From there I  continued west on Hwy 20 across Rainy Pass and on to the North Cascades NP where I camped for three days and hiked. It was there, hiking up Fourth of July Pass that I irritated my IT band on my left leg. The hike was completely worth it though.

View from Fourth of July Pass

Late afternoon Ross Lake

Hiking Thunder Creek

Driving Hwy 20

The following weekend was July 4th so I decided to find an off the grid campsite, so my first stop was the ranger station at Darrington in the Mt Baker-Snoqualmie NF. Once again the rangers steered me to a great place on a FS road past the regular campgrounds on the Suiattle River. It was a perfect spot to lose the crowds and I enjoyed a nice long weekend there.

So with the holiday behind me I had to make a decision, to go to Vancouver BC or not. At this point I was still thinking of taking a ferry from the Olympic Peninsula, so  I headed down I-5 toward Seattle. Boy, the traffic there was horrible, but I loved seeing Mt Rainer off in the distance.....despite to smog.  One sad fact about this trip was that where ever I went smog blanketed the sky,(and this was pre-forest fire) it was just so damned THERE. I remember thinking to myself throughout the trip that by driving a gas hog (only 20 mpg max) I was contributing to the problem. It still bothers me.

Once past Seattle and Tacoma I headed north on Hwy 101 through the towns of Sequim and Port Angeles and on to Hwy 113 to Sekiu and then down to Ozette. This is an amazing area of Olympic NP right on the coast. I hiked the Ozette Triangle which comprises walking through the forest mostly on a boardwalk then up the beach to connect to the last part of the triangle which takes you back through a beautiful forest and back to the campground. The trail was about 8-9 miles but the beach hike was a workout. I passed a couple of women backpacking along the beach and their footprints in the sand were several inches deep. You have to be cognizant of the tides while hiking here as you can get caught if not careful. They have alternative "high ground" detours at strategic points. While hiking the beach I could hear and see seals in the surf.

 The next day I drove to the Hoh River campground to hike the trail there. Arriving at the campground mid afternoon I beat the crowds and got a spot. It was great having my geezer pass at the few campgrounds  I stayed at. The rates here at half price were still 10.00. I got up early the next morning and hit the trail. What a magical place!

Early morning Hoh River

Hoh river giant, note hiking poles

Lush stream

 After the hike I headed down the coast to Ruby Beach. I got there midday so there were quite a few people there. Next time I'll get there earlier or at sunset.

 From here I circled back to the Tacoma area and over to Mt Rainer, staying again at the NP campground and hiking.

Silver Falls hike

Majestic Rainer

More giants at Grove of the Patriarchs

Trillium

After leaving Rainer, I headed toward the coast to Willapa NWR.  The best way to see this refuge is to take a  short boat ride across a tidal river, but since I didn't have a boat with me I opted for the visitor center which turned out to be amazing! Lots of birds and just beautiful.

Old covered bridge near Willapa

The next day I made my way to Mt. St. Helens and one of the prettiest hikes of the trip, Coldwater Lake Trail. The wildflowers were simply riotous.

From here I headed to Battle Ground WA, to the post office to pickup my van registration which I'd done online. It wasn't there but the following day, Saturday it arrived and I headed towards Portland. The bridges in this part of the country are just beautiful.
A funny thing happened in Portland. I stopped for gas and after selecting the grade I turned around to start pumping only to find a guy standing in my personal space. I asked if I could help him, thinking he needed money or something, and he said "I work here", and I said and?, and he said it's state law that we pump the gas.......well live and learn...only OR and NJ still have this law, but it does provide a job for someone, and gets me off the hook for pumping as well. I headed up Hwy 30 to Astoria which is a lovely town, then crossed a bridge back into WA for the night to stay at a rest stop on the Columbia River. Lots of other travelers there.

The next morning bright and early I began making my way down the Oregon coast.